Good fuel proofer?

[Txmustangflyer]

Fuel proofing the finish is a bit tricky as it needs to flow out, have a good bond and shine and not yellow over time. Diluted hobby adhesive epoxy doesn't cut it. Diluted epoxy can help seal the engine compartment but to fuel proof the models finish I find its performance rather poor. Catalyzed epoxy and catalyzed urethane paints have been the best fuel proof finish for me. But these are often dangerous products for the hobbyist to be using.

Klasskote works great and is what I use in my QM40 and Q500 racers. It has also held up to 65% nitro fuels used in the defunct F1 class of racer.

Please heed the danger warnings with any catalyzed paint! in the 70's Dupont's Imron paint put me in the hospital for 3 days and I was suffering the effects for 6 month (neurological and respiratory distress). I was using a full face respirator but not a pressure suit (later this would be recommended by Dupont)

My main concern with what I do is the firewall and any parts engine side of the fire wall. As far as outside they are either a fiberglass composite, or Ultrakote, which, in and of itself, stands up great to fuel, unless it gets underneath. Then it gets messy. The current project, a Hanger 9 1/5th scale, is ultrakote covered. It's also a half cowl, or chin cowl, if you prefer. This means, engine inverted, everything above, as far as wood, also has to be coated.
Looking at Klass Kote vs what I was considering, I think I'll drop the 50 bucks lol.

 

[Konrad]

Oh, film covered models with slimer engines.

I've always thought of sealing of the engine compartment and firewall as a separate process from that of a fuel proof finish. I too like a thick epoxy to seal the wood and any cracks in the part lines.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Oh, film covered models with slimer engines.

I've always thought of sealing of the engine compartment and firewall as a separate process from that of a fuel proof finish. I too like a thick epoxy to seal the wood and any cracks in the part lines.

Lol @Sliner engines...how else ya gonna spin a 23.5 inch prop for 20 minute flight durations

 

[Hank]

A couple of clear coat paints that are advertised to be fuel proof and are available to me at local hobby stores are:
Spaz Stix acrylic enamel spray can for RC cars. The other is a water based product by Deluxe Materials (I can't remember the product name).
But from now on I will try to do more paint and glue that is water based since it gets too fumey in my basement in the winter with the windows closed.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

A couple of clear coat paints that are advertised to be fuel proof and are available to me at local hobby stores are:
Spaz Stix acrylic enamel spray can for RC cars. The other is a water based product by Deluxe Materials (I can't remember the product name).
But from now on I will try to do more paint and glue that is water based since it gets too fumey in my basement in the winter with the windows closed.

Hank. Can you post a shot of the can on the first Spaz Stix?
I'm assuming solvent based?

 

[Hank]

Hank. Can you post a shot of the can on the first Spaz Stix?
I'm assuming solvent based?

 

[Hank]

After digging around for the Deluxe Materials Aerokote fuel proofer, I found out that it is only available in England, where it is produced. So l might look into catalyzed automotive clearcoat paint if the Spaz Stix spray doesn't do the job.
Previously I used spray polyurethane on small warbirds with mixed success. It fuel proofed the majority of the plane except near the glow engine exhaust. I touched up that area and sprayed it with spar urethane. That has a substantial yellowing effect but it is on the bottom of a small (battle tested) warbird. It seems to hold up against raw and hot exhaust. The paint under it is Rust-Oleum spray paint.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Thank you, sir.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

Klass Kote might be the cheaper alternative.

 

[Hank]

Klass Kote might be the cheaper alternative.

I will look into that. I remember their prices for paint were steep. For the cheap little combat warbirds I didn't think it was worth the money. But I have an upcoming 60-size classic pattern plane and that one is worth the cost of good paint and clearcoat.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

I will look into that. I remember their prices for paint were steep. For the cheap little combat warbirds I didn't think it was worth the money. But I have an upcoming 60-size classic pattern plane and that one is worth the cost of good paint and clearcoat.

Going to use it on the firewall of my 1/5th scale mustang as well.

I trust Konrad's opinion on this one. If he says it's impervious, it's impervious. With the engine I'm going to be running in it which requires a 30:1 mix..yeah..going to make sure that firewall is sealed real good.

 

[Hank]

For fuel proofing engine, fuel tank, and even internal compartments, I have been using either butyrate dope paint or thinned epoxy. This has worked well for many years.
What is new for me is fuel proofing paint finish. For many years I have been using colored iron on films such as monokote and ultra coat, which don't need fuel proofing. But now I'm painting finishes that require fuel proofing as well. In that case, a fuel proof clear coat that is compatible with the paint and that does not change the color of the paint is critical.

 

[Hoqiam]

Hey Guys,
You should switch to the big Hacker motors, I have been using them for years. My biggest one is equivalent to
a 200 cc DA engine, and swings a 32x12 prop. and no fuel problems. 42% (EXTRA 300 )
As an also benefit, there is no C.G. shift or weight shift during flight. In addition if you want to you can turn it on or off
during flight.

Tom

 

[Hank]

Thanks, but I'll pass on that. I like my glow engines with all their features.

 

[Txmustangflyer]

For fuel proofing engine, fuel tank, and even internal compartments, I have been using either butyrate dope paint or thinned epoxy. This has worked well for many years.
What is new for me is fuel proofing paint finish. For many years I have been using colored iron on films such as monokote and ultra coat, which don't need fuel proofing. But now I'm painting finishes that require fuel proofing as well. In that case, a fuel proof clear coat that is compatible with the paint and that does not change the color of the paint is critical.

True..the nice thing I see on the Klass Kote is the ability to order a small amount, on up.

 

[Hoqiam]

OK Hank, to each his own, but it sure is nice to have pristine airplanes!

 

[Txmustangflyer]

OK Hank, to each his own, but it sure is nice to have pristine airplanes!

We like flight times longer than 7 minutes.

 

[Hoqiam]

So do I! We fly with a 50 Volt system using two banks of 3 5s batteries in parallel .

It might be worth your while to spend a little time looking at what really can be done
rather than what to me sounds like knee jerk and hear say.

Tom

 

[Txmustangflyer]

So do I! We fly with a 50 Volt system using two banks of 3 5s batteries in parallel .

It might be worth your while to spend a little time looking at what really can be done
rather than what to me sounds like knee jerk and hear say.

Tom

Not knee jerking.. I prefer gas engines...that's all. On top of that, the plane I am building is specifically set up for gas. To convert to electric is too much trouble.
It's not a matter of whether it can be done or not, it's a simple as I don't want to. As a result, a good fuel proofer discussion is a good thing. Alternatives are also a good thing.
I, personally, have never cared for electric powered planes. Nothing wrong with them, but I don't get the same gut feeling that I get from a gas engine firing up. It's a visceral pleasure, if that makes sense. The noise, the smell, the mutter from the exhaust at idle that increases to a roar at full throttle.
It's much more satisfying than just a whine from an electric motor.
A warbird should be a raw, visceral, roaring thing.
This hobby is about the challenge, but there is a pleasure to it too. Gas engines do that for me.
My challenge comes from things like I'm in process now. How to get a 62 cc zenoah spin a 23.5 inch 4 blade vario-prop at 6000+. That's where I find my challenge. You find yours in electric. Good for you.

 

[Flying Dutchman]

Ah yes, I love the smell of burnt glow in the morning. Smells like victory.

Truth be told, I still love it and does something to me, like an electric motor never will. Still have a few glow planes hanging on the wall, but I doubt I'll ever fly them again. Now that I've become an electric weenie, I don't think I'll ever go back. It's too convenient...