Hill Hobbit
Very Strong User
Note that to get the rod into the fin when the ball has been soldered on it, that the radiussed slot in the fin has had a hole made on one side to let the ball through.
Aloft Forums
Welcome to Aloft Forums. Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members through your own private inbox!
Forza 2.5
- Thread starter Wayne
- Start date
Grover100
User
Grover100
User
Hi Jonty,
thank you so much for your detailed explanation, I’m sure I’ll be fine when I get to that bit.
I’m working on the wing servos first as they seem pretty straightforward. This is my 6th moulded glider, so i should be able to do it blindfold by now
ha ha.
Yeah, I’m really looking forward to this one - there are a few flying at my nearest slope (Buster hill in Hampshire) and they all really rate them. I’ve already got a Magnus, which i love but would like something a bit bigger to go with it.
With the storm on its way this weekend, it could be a good time to do some building
Martin
thank you so much for your detailed explanation, I’m sure I’ll be fine when I get to that bit.
I’m working on the wing servos first as they seem pretty straightforward. This is my 6th moulded glider, so i should be able to do it blindfold by now
ha ha.Yeah, I’m really looking forward to this one - there are a few flying at my nearest slope (Buster hill in Hampshire) and they all really rate them. I’ve already got a Magnus, which i love but would like something a bit bigger to go with it.
With the storm on its way this weekend, it could be a good time to do some building
Martin
Hill Hobbit
Very Strong User
Hi Martin, all the best with fitting it out this weekend ! I’ll butt out now…
Doc J
Very Strong User
It's funny, Martin. I sell many Forza models in Europe but not so much in the USA, which used to be my biggest market. This, although it's the personal favourite of many people who have bought them.Hi Jonty,
thank you so much for your detailed explanation, I’m sure I’ll be fine when I get to that bit.
I’m working on the wing servos first as they seem pretty straightforward. This is my 6th moulded glider, so i should be able to do it blindfold by now
Yeah, I’m really looking forward to this one - there are a few flying at my nearest slope (Buster hill in Hampshire) and they all really rate them. I’ve already got a Magnus, which i love but would like something a bit bigger to go with it.
With the storm on its way this weekend, it could be a good time to do some building
Martin
I'm wondering if people are worried about what might happen very soon due to The Donald taking over again. Someone told me the first thing Mr Trump might do is change the law and make himself president for life. Joking aside, it would not surprise me, as he seems to do pretty much what he wants despite any opposition.
We'll see.
Doc.
Grover100
User
Well that sounds like something cheery to look forward to in the new year LOL
I’d better get my finger out and maiden this beauty, just in case it all goes pear-shaped.
Seriously though, it’s already going slow, as my family keep asking me to do things around the house
like put up all the Xmas decorations.One aileron done - the others should be a piece of cake. Pushrod length 53mm, wing cutout lengthened to 14mm and servo arm radius 5mm.
Martin
Last edited:
Hill Hobbit
Very Strong User
Hi Martin, a couple of quick questions. In your pic of the aileron servo, is your servo (and servo arm) and aileron at the neutral position?
Grover100
User
Hi Jonty,
Yes, the servo is at 90 degrees to the hinge line but the servo arm is a couple of splines towards the TE, as per instructions.
However, i think even with the servo arm radius at 5mm, the servo movement will need to be dialled back a fair bit. What I’ll do is set the servo arm mechanical neutral and pushrod length to give a nice linear movement plus and minus 15mm and then add differential, crow etc from there. Getting the mechanical setup linear and the same from left to right makes the final calibration much much easier and more accurate. It’s a bit of a fiddle but worth the extra effort IMHO.
Cheers, Martin
Grover100
User
P.s. i do confess that I put a couple of degrees bend in the pushrod in order to keep the pushrod cutout down to 14mm. pretty confident that this will be OK in use. Obviously this is a no-no on the flap pushrod.
And the servo mount needs a tiny bit of grinding, as the Clevis is binding when the aileron goes down.
Bring on the receiver-ready LDS version I say
And the servo mount needs a tiny bit of grinding, as the Clevis is binding when the aileron goes down.
Bring on the receiver-ready LDS version I say
Last edited:
Hill Hobbit
Very Strong User
Hi Martin, would you like me to tell you how to sort that out? I say this as I’ve been advised by a leading light on this forum to keep schtum unless specifically asked for assistance.
Jonty
Jonty
Hill Hobbit
Very Strong User
Hi Martin, please ring me on 01905 426272.
Cheers
Cheers
Martin,
This is one of those "scary" things we often times get to refine on a molded glider. While it looks like you are getting pretty good down travel inthe photo, I'm guessing you are probably putting a pretty big load on the surface to get that angle?
So here are a few things that are common to watch for and adjust:
1) Does the wiper seal (the white arc) fit well and have good clearance. It should be close to or even touching the main panel skin. And should not ever be able to catch on the other skin. If it can catch on the other skin, then you MUST fix this as it could result in a flight surface getting stuck in the fully deployed state. No one likes this! (Grab some fine wet dry sandpaper and slip it between the wiper and the skin and slide the sandpaper up and down the hinge with the flight surface angled to where the sanding is most needed. be sure to check the fit often.)
2) Free surface movement for the travel you would like. It is not uncommon to have tight hinges on composite models. This is one of those things that is very subjective and will vary from model to model and a lot depends on the layup and hinge cutting process used by the manufacturer and the intended operation of the model. But they can be loosened up, but really can't be tightened up, so side of the tighter side of the scale.
To adjust a tight hinge, I am going to encourage others to share their methods as I suspect they have some better experience than I do.
My approach is pretty basic and the first step is simply to study the flight surface and make sure I understand what is limiting the travel. GAP wiper seals are a common issue as noted above. I usually start there and when those are doing well I'll look at adjusting the hinge. Most planes use a kevlar fabric in the layup for the hinge. Why? It is damn hard to hurt the stuff. But it can be hurt, and you do not want to do that! I will take a very small hobby file and sand at the inside hinge if I can get at it. You can also use a hobby knife and tenderly work on the outside of the hinge. You will want to flex the flight surface up or down to get good access. Basically you want to work some of the resin out of the kevlar.
I'm eager to hear what methods other folks use for this issue.
Grover100
User
Hi Wayne,
My wipers are A1 perfect with no trimming needed - first time that I didn’t have to get the file or sandpaper out
My mini-issue is definitely with the hinge line itself and i think it’s just stiff with the amount of resin, as you say. I can’t access the inside of the hinge, as there’s only a mm or so of gap between wiper and top wing skin. It does seem to have loosened up a bit with all the servo and linkage work - probably up to 70 degrees now.
When you look at the hinge from the underside of the wing, it looks like there’s approx 1mm gap between the aileron and wing skins along the hinge line. However, behind this gap there appears to be be a layer of black (i assume a layer of carbon cloth) which may be adding to the stiffness. I can’t really see what’s going on from the top though.
If anyone else has some experience that they would like to share, that would be great. Jonty gave me some advice on the phone earlier (thanks Jonty) and I’ll leave that to him if he wishes to share
Martin
My wipers are A1 perfect with no trimming needed - first time that I didn’t have to get the file or sandpaper out
My mini-issue is definitely with the hinge line itself and i think it’s just stiff with the amount of resin, as you say. I can’t access the inside of the hinge, as there’s only a mm or so of gap between wiper and top wing skin. It does seem to have loosened up a bit with all the servo and linkage work - probably up to 70 degrees now.
When you look at the hinge from the underside of the wing, it looks like there’s approx 1mm gap between the aileron and wing skins along the hinge line. However, behind this gap there appears to be be a layer of black (i assume a layer of carbon cloth) which may be adding to the stiffness. I can’t really see what’s going on from the top though.
If anyone else has some experience that they would like to share, that would be great. Jonty gave me some advice on the phone earlier (thanks Jonty) and I’ll leave that to him if he wishes to share
Martin
