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E-Tracer build
- Thread starter Dirtypool
- Start date
It looks like the back wall is where the pushrods will line up.
I drilled the holes there and they appear close. I won’t know until the servos are mounted. But the servos bottom out on the other side of the fuse. I need to put spacers under the servo tabs.
I also ordered some MP Jet ball links since someone on here said that they fit better than the ones from TJIRC provided in the kit.
But, the MP Jet are pretty sloppy after they are on. They take a little more force to put on but once they are snapped on, they are actually looser.
They don’t appear better than the factory ones. Maybe I’m wrong but less slop would seem better to me.
I drilled the holes there and they appear close. I won’t know until the servos are mounted. But the servos bottom out on the other side of the fuse. I need to put spacers under the servo tabs.
I also ordered some MP Jet ball links since someone on here said that they fit better than the ones from TJIRC provided in the kit.
But, the MP Jet are pretty sloppy after they are on. They take a little more force to put on but once they are snapped on, they are actually looser.
They don’t appear better than the factory ones. Maybe I’m wrong but less slop would seem better to me.
I'm not so sure the MP Jet balls should be popped out of their housings. I've never tried that with them. I have always been able to keep the balls in the housings, and they are really nice and tight that way. But on this plane, with the balls being brazed onto the music wire, you don't have much choice.
Yes, play is bad.
Yes, drilling a hole on the back wall is ideal.. As small as practical is best. Don't want to remove gobs of material in the tail boom. Surprised the servos bottomed out, but the Tracer is a rather thin model.
Yes, play is bad.
Yes, drilling a hole on the back wall is ideal.. As small as practical is best. Don't want to remove gobs of material in the tail boom. Surprised the servos bottomed out, but the Tracer is a rather thin model.
Ok. I’ll start with that one. Thanks.
I reinforced the gap from the firewall to the fuse (where the fuse is molded into the canopy) with epoxy and Kevlar pulp. Do I need to drill a hole in that to provide ventilation for the motor and esc inside the fuse? Or wait and see how it goes first?
I reinforced the gap from the firewall to the fuse (where the fuse is molded into the canopy) with epoxy and Kevlar pulp. Do I need to drill a hole in that to provide ventilation for the motor and esc inside the fuse? Or wait and see how it goes first?
It is always a good idea to have airflow over the motor. Additional holes can be made after the firewall if additional ESC/battery cooling is needed.
There are different ways you can fly this model. And for first flights I will suggest the first method:
Method 1- Power up and fly for some altitude. Cut the motor power, fold the prop and fly around. Get the plane trimmed out and and then do some high speed passes, etc. Turn the power back on as needed to regain altitude. Do this for a little bit, but land early to make sure all temps are good.
Method 2- Power up and fly around and never turn off the power. Again, land early to check the temps.
What issues are you having with the prop collet? Pictures?
There are different ways you can fly this model. And for first flights I will suggest the first method:
Method 1- Power up and fly for some altitude. Cut the motor power, fold the prop and fly around. Get the plane trimmed out and and then do some high speed passes, etc. Turn the power back on as needed to regain altitude. Do this for a little bit, but land early to make sure all temps are good.
Method 2- Power up and fly around and never turn off the power. Again, land early to check the temps.
What issues are you having with the prop collet? Pictures?
Ok.
The tightening screw is hitting the motor shaft and making it hard to get it tight enough. Without putting pressure on it to start compressing the collet I can’t get it to tighten up as the collet just spins.
I think I will have to get it snug, then pull it forward a bit so the screw doesn’t hit the motor shaft and then try to tighten it from there.
Do you scuff any of the surfaces or use any other friction adders?
I have done these on EDF’s and smaller planes before without issue.
I can send a pic later tonight.
The motor is a T-motor AT2826- 900kv.
The tightening screw is hitting the motor shaft and making it hard to get it tight enough. Without putting pressure on it to start compressing the collet I can’t get it to tighten up as the collet just spins.
I think I will have to get it snug, then pull it forward a bit so the screw doesn’t hit the motor shaft and then try to tighten it from there.
Do you scuff any of the surfaces or use any other friction adders?
I have done these on EDF’s and smaller planes before without issue.
I can send a pic later tonight.
The motor is a T-motor AT2826- 900kv.
Motor shaft is 5mm. Measured. The problem with the spinner was I had the cup upside down, so it wasn't pulling against anything. I flipped it over and it tightened right up. Don't mind me. I'm just spinning in circles over here.
I cut the servo spacer/trays and they fit well. I didn't feel like painting them. I guess the servos only come with 3 screws, so you put one on one side in the center and 2 on the other? I'll add the 4th screw on them.
This is what I added to the West Systems epoxy for the firewall fill and fillet.
And, I epoxied the tail on
I'll go check on it in a while before the epoxy has fully hardened in case I need to clean it up. There was definitely a lot more fiddling involved by just having the small holes in the fuse for the ball link horns.
I cut the servo spacer/trays and they fit well. I didn't feel like painting them. I guess the servos only come with 3 screws, so you put one on one side in the center and 2 on the other? I'll add the 4th screw on them.
This is what I added to the West Systems epoxy for the firewall fill and fillet.
And, I epoxied the tail on
I'll go check on it in a while before the epoxy has fully hardened in case I need to clean it up. There was definitely a lot more fiddling involved by just having the small holes in the fuse for the ball link horns.
