thenated0g
Moderator
Spot to discuss P1S, parts we are using. Upgrades. What filament we like/use.
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Bambu P1S
- Thread starter thenated0g
- Start date
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- 3dprinting ams bambu p1s printing
thenated0g
Moderator
Our favorite MODS and UPGRADES:
Brighter better placed LED light. Magnetic connection, uses same connector as included light:
biqu.equipment
Poop Chute
AMS Desiccant holders: https://makerworld.com/en/models/545051-bambu-lab-ams-dry-boxes-desiccant-silica-gel-beads
Desiccant from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5Y2DG6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1
Funnel for above: https://makerworld.com/en/models/463978-funnel-for-ams-dessicant-holder
Top Glass riser: https://makerworld.com/en/models/506696-upper-glass-riser-also-works-with-ams
My shop is regularly over 75f so i use this all the time
Brighter better placed LED light. Magnetic connection, uses same connector as included light:
BIQU Panda Lux LED Upgrade Kit | Bright Lighting for Bambu Printers
Enhance your Bambu Lab 3D printer with the BIQU Panda Lux LED upgrade kit. Easy installation and bright LED illumination improve visibility for prints and workspace.
biqu.equipment
Poop Chute
AMS Desiccant holders: https://makerworld.com/en/models/545051-bambu-lab-ams-dry-boxes-desiccant-silica-gel-beads
Desiccant from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I5Y2DG6?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1
Funnel for above: https://makerworld.com/en/models/463978-funnel-for-ams-dessicant-holder
Top Glass riser: https://makerworld.com/en/models/506696-upper-glass-riser-also-works-with-ams
My shop is regularly over 75f so i use this all the time
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thenated0g
Moderator
Our favorite Filaments:
PLA
$0.35 an ounce
Creality 4 Pack PLA 1.75mm Filament Bundle for 3D Printing with No-Tangling Strong Bonding and Overhang Performance, Accuracy +/- 0.02mm (Black,White,Grey,Yellow)
PLA
$0.35 an ounce
Creality 4 Pack PLA 1.75mm Filament Bundle for 3D Printing with No-Tangling Strong Bonding and Overhang Performance, Accuracy +/- 0.02mm (Black,White,Grey,Yellow)
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thenated0g
Moderator
The view from the door, when checking on prints is way easier to see now too:
thenated0g
Moderator
@Wayne
@Yotaman1985 talked me and @Hawaii Sloper into getting the P1S.
Gotta say the quality of life stuff it has is super nice. Already saved me a long print when the ams switched to another roll when one was empty.
@Yotaman1985 talked me and @Hawaii Sloper into getting the P1S.
Gotta say the quality of life stuff it has is super nice. Already saved me a long print when the ams switched to another roll when one was empty.
Yep - We love our printers. Rafael is the printer whisperer, he gets them working to their highest levels, I'm sure he will post up here soon. We have a small farm of printers here, and he has a larger farm at his house. All Bambu units from the little A1 Mini upto the H2D. Think we have seen about all of the issues, H2D is already on its second print head.
I will say they seem to hate me, everytime I try to use them something goes wrong and we have to buy a part. LOL I'm cursed.
I will say they seem to hate me, everytime I try to use them something goes wrong and we have to buy a part. LOL I'm cursed.
Hey everyone! As Wayne mentioned, we’ve already done all kinds of maintenance here. For example, when we first got our H2D, we accidentally knocked one of the rear fan vent tabs out of place hahaha. I ended up having to remove the entire rear panel to disassemble the vent fan assembly and put the tab back where it belonged.
Just the other day, the heated bed temperature controller power supply burned out. By the time I reached it, I had practically disassembled the whole printer while following the troubleshooting steps from the Bambu Lab website to find the issue. The printer stayed taken apart for almost a week — rear panel removed, heated bed completely disassembled hahaha.
But thankfully, I didn’t end up with any leftover screws!
In my small home print farm, I currently have one H2S, two X1Cs, two P2Ss, one X2D (not delivered yet), and one Snapmaker U1.
@thenated0g If you ever need any help or tips, I’ll be happy to help. Between my own printers and the ones at Aloft, I already have more than 15,000 combined hours of 3D printing experience on these machines.
Just the other day, the heated bed temperature controller power supply burned out. By the time I reached it, I had practically disassembled the whole printer while following the troubleshooting steps from the Bambu Lab website to find the issue. The printer stayed taken apart for almost a week — rear panel removed, heated bed completely disassembled hahaha.
But thankfully, I didn’t end up with any leftover screws!
In my small home print farm, I currently have one H2S, two X1Cs, two P2Ss, one X2D (not delivered yet), and one Snapmaker U1.
@thenated0g If you ever need any help or tips, I’ll be happy to help. Between my own printers and the ones at Aloft, I already have more than 15,000 combined hours of 3D printing experience on these machines.
thenated0g
Moderator
When/what kind of maintenance do you recommend for the P1S ?
Preventive maintenance is essential for these printers. I use lithium grease on the lead screws, but before applying it, I always clean off all the old dark/black grease buildup from the rods. I buy it on Amazon, and I also use Super Lube oil on the linear rods after cleaning and removing the old lubricant.
I also lubricate the pulleys anywhere the belts make contact using the same oil — but be careful not to get any oil on the belts themselves. Since we use the printers heavily here and they collect a lot of dust, I do this maintenance about every 3 months, although for lighter use you could probably do it less often.
I also clean the carbon rods with isopropyl alcohol and then run a special Bambu Lab G-code to re-lubricate the rods after cleaning. I usually do that every couple of months.
Basically, that’s my routine. Also, if you’re having adhesion problems, just cleaning the build plate with alcohol usually isn’t enough. It’s always better to wash it in the kitchen sink with dish soap hahaha. Alcohol works fine for removing dust sometimes, but once you touch the plate with your fingers, it really needs a proper wash.
And for truly flawless prints, always run the filament Flow Calibration and Dynamic Flow Calibration, then save the settings whenever you use a different color or brand of filament.
For example, Bambu Lab PETG HF Black will need one calibration profile, while the Red version may need another. The same applies when switching to a different brand. Taking the time to do this will make your prints come out incredibly clean and consistent.
For example, Bambu Lab PETG HF Black will need one calibration profile, while the Red version may need another. The same applies when switching to a different brand. Taking the time to do this will make your prints come out incredibly clean and consistent.
I know you have the raiser already but this option here is the best, because you can slide it back to open and print PLA, also prevent the filament tubes from scratching the glass
