Anyone using single stick gimbal from aloft?

[rob3dd]

Anyone tried this single stick knob?
https://alofthobbies.com/make-your-own-taranis-three-axis-gimbal.html

Just wondering how it centers and if spring tension is adjustable.

 

[Konrad]

Rudder knob does not have an adjustment that I could find. You will in all likelihood want to add more tension to the base gimbals to support the weight of the knob.

What kind of value are you looking for as to centering performance?

 

[rob3dd]

Rudder knob does not have an adjustment that I could find. You will in all likelihood want to add more tension to the base gimbals to support the weight of the knob.

What kind of value are you looking for as to centering performance?

I fly mainly FPV quads now and 3D profiles which I’m constantly using rudder and I rarely use stick neutral when flying so I may not need a non wondering neutral.
I think you are asking if I need accuracy of hall gimbals?
I used to add a resistor on leg(s) of pot to help get a more accurate neutral or to adjust neutral or endpoints if needed.

 

[Nigel]

Stick choice, as with all things, is personal preference, but I would recommend a regular two-stick configuration. If you flew single stick for years it may be worthwhile if you haven't practiced coordinating rudder with your left hand. Otherwise my recommendation would be to use the standard radio layout - I don't see any advantages to flying a single-stick radio for FPV or 3D.

In regards to what Konrad was mentioning, I believe he was touching upon an issue with third axis stick ends, which is the physical centering of the stick. You add quite a lot of mass pretty far out on a lever working against the centering springs, so if strong centering is a must, then a third axis stick is not recommended. You can upgrade to heavier springs, but it will never match the standard stick layout.

Just my two cents - I have/do fly FPV and 3D, but never a third axis radio.

 

[Konrad]

I fly mainly FPV quads now and 3D profiles which I’m constantly using rudder and I rarely use stick neutral when flying so I may not need a non wondering neutral.
I think you are asking if I need accuracy of hall gimbals?
I used to add a resistor on leg(s) of pot to help get a more accurate neutral or to adjust neutral or endpoints if needed.

What I'm asking is in what units you want to measure repeatability. 100 returns within 2 arc seconds of a circle. Or are you fine with a subjective report that they center fine.

I don't find Hall effect gimbals any better than pots when both are new. I have found pots wear/drift. I also see a lot of this drift as a function of gimbal mechanics wearing.

As I recall adding resistors to the trim pot just narrowed the responce of the trim pot. It did nothing to improver the centering of the stick or even the resolution of the trim circuit. I did narrow the range that one could use the trim. Some felt that it resulted in finer adjustments. I didn't think so.

 

[rob3dd]

What I'm asking is in what units you want to measure repeatability. 100 returns within 2 arc seconds of a circle. Or are you fine with a subjective report that they center fine.

I don't find Hall effect gimbals any better than pots when both are new. I have found pots wear/drift. I also see a lot of this drift as a function of gimbal mechanics wearing.

As I recall adding resistors to the trim pot just narrowed the responce of the trim pot. It did nothing to improver the centering of the stick or even the resolution of the trim circuit. I did narrow the range that one could use the trim. Some felt that it resulted in finer adjustments. I didn't think so.

I understand what your saying now.
100 returns within 2 seconds of a circle arc would be acceptable.
I’m rebuilding the radio pictured below. I don’t miss the mess from glow fuel.My radio needs a good scrubbing.If I like the results I’d put a SS on taranis.
I used a foot pedal for throttle.The rca jack accepted a plug from a volume pedal for a electric guitar with a 50k Pot in it.
Took a few variable resistors but matched the range measurements and it worked fine.

 

[Hoqiam]

Hey!
Yes I have put a 3rd axis knob on my Horus X10S Express. I tried winding some new springs for my knob, but I can't find
music wire in a diameter that would do the job. The only thing that really defines the centering is the precision of the stop
pin location in the base of the knob and the location of the pickup pins in the knob. It is the micro amount
of free play that screws everything up. Everything needs to be net-net! I disconnected the Hall gimble Rudder wiring and run
the knob wiring through the Left Slider circuitry. Since the Rudder Pot in the Knob is an Analog circuit it operates just fine.
Just remap the sticks and Slider circuits. (The Sliders are both Analog)

I also modified the right hand Slider to be the throttle lever like a regular Single Stick TX. Again just remap things and it works
great. I needed to make and install some new parts of course but it is worth it.

Every thing is nice and clean and no Left Stick!

Tom

 

[Old Swashplate]

I too installed one on my X9E a few weeks ago. I have M9 gimbals so I did have to increase the hole in the gimbal to accept the larger shaft of the three axis stick. As Konrad stated the knob (third axis) spring doesn’t appear to be easily adjusted and I feel it’s quite strong, more than I prefer. I also agree with Konrad that the base gimbal springs are too weak to properly support the stick with little to no feel of centering. I have tried installing the HD gimbal springs from Aloft but didn’t notice any improvement in centering so I’m debating either making/finding some stronger springs or trying to double up the springs (that likely won’t work). For now I’ve reinstalled the three axis stick I originally had https://www.superdroidrobots.com/shop/item.aspx/analog-3-axis-joystick/1263/ while I experiment with the FrSky one.