Aeroic Schwing Corsa Build

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jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#1
Hi,
I'm finally building my Schwing Corsa.
I cannot seem to fit the wires under the fuselage ballast tube. Maybe my wires are too fat.
So, I decided to use wing weights only. I can get 500g of tungsten in each side. That should be enough.

The molding quality of this kit is very nice. The instructions indicate to sand the mold line off the wing leading edge, however my seems perfect out of the box. I wonder if the manufacturing process was improved over the years and made this step redundant?
 
May 9, 2018
79
8
Napa
#4
Is the tail servo secured? Please plug the stab in and check it. I found on the Gremlin that mounting the servo directly below the stab, it didn’t like to pull the elevator down with the top hinge. I moved the servo forward a little so that it had about 15-20 degrees and then the elevator worked flawlessly. More about this in the Gremlin build thread.

Mo
 

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jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#5
Hi,
I started with the shortest arm that came with the MKS HV6100. But it stuck out the side of the tail too much. So I drilled a small hole (no. 55 drill?) right next to the shoulder of the servo arm. Then I threaded in the ball joint (No. 00 screw) I secured it with a drop of epoxy. I'm guessing the center line dimension is approximately 5mm, maybe less. It still protrudes the side if the tail a millimeter or so. But it is short as possible.
I tested it and its move the elevator up 7mm and down 5mm. I can mess with the throws in the radio settings ( it calls for 7mm down and 5mm up). I think having the ball joint at the bottom makes it move smoothly. There are two perpendicular arc to travel through and both joints should be free in two planes, else it will bind.

A far more interesting problem was figuring out how to drill out the brass ball joint to accept a 3/32"OD brass tube.
 

jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#7
The balls are brass, sometimes chrome plated, but they can easily be drilled with a standard twist bit. The trick is how do you hold them? I separated the ball from the socket and used a short brass rod to position the ball in to a drill chuck. Then I use a second drill motor to enlarge the hole. Don't use a super sharp brand new bit because it will grab the brass and the ball will spin in the chuck. If thats all you got then break the sharp drill edge with a stone.
can36.jpeg
77gvR.jpeg
GaytP.jpeg
2uiO8.jpeg
wzP91.jpeg
 

jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#8
My wire loom is too long! I either need to stuff the wires under the wing or suffer the pain of redoing all the connectors. I have bad luck even with the best crimper.
Qpn7W.jpeg
 

Konrad

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2018
815
47
San Francisco
#9
Thank you. That is very much like the process I use, holding the ball in a chuck. I try to find a brass tube (soft jaws) to put the ball in as I don't like to clamp the jaws directly on the bearing surface.

I feel you pain with the wiring. I find crimped connectors much easier than soldered splices.
 

Wayne

Administrator
Staff member
Nov 29, 2017
938
116
Novato, CA USA
#10
We are working on new harnesses for this plane and, well most all 2 piece wing planes to cure this issue. We should have them in stock with in the month. I know, not a help for you now, just thought I would let others know. These planes will be supplied with the new harnesses once we have them.
 

jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#12
The wire that goes into the elevators is smaller diameter than the ball link.The brass tube that the wire fits in has a larger OD than the hole in the ball link. And have the brass tube thru the ball link is in Doc James's instructions, but he gets metric sized tubing. I'm stuck with the local hobby shop supply.
Also the brass tube sticks out each side of the fin, so the control rod is not lost when the elevators are removed.
 

Konrad

Well-known member
Jan 23, 2018
815
47
San Francisco
#13
Let me add some detail.
I think jvaliensi said that two spherical joints are needed as the control set up
describes two arcs at 90° to each other.

Dual spherical joint.jpg
 

jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#14
Nice annotation!
BTW - the brace on top of the servo is a popsicle stick. If I didn't put the servo sticker on it I would never remember what I used.
You know they say memory is the second thing to go. What was the 1st???
 
May 9, 2018
79
8
Napa
#16
Got it. Thanks. I used a z bend at the bottom and a plastic clevis at the top with the pin removed and drilled out to 2 or 2.5mm don’t recall for sure.
 

jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#17
More work. I never make the same mistake twice, I always strive to find new mistakes.
The kit's radio tray was cut for two servos and since I put the elevator in the rear I would have a redundant hole. So, I cut a new deck from red G10. I had toxic green, which matches the airplane perfectly, but my piece was too short and too thin.
I cut it for the rudder servo centered in the fuselage, and to fit the 2S poly battery and RX I'm using.
 

Attachments

jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#18
My mistake was centering the servo and setting the tray up too high. The rudder push rod must ramp up to the arm. I should have set the tray 5mm lower. Offsetting the servo towards the right side a couple mm would have added more clearance from the canopy.
But it will work ok as is.
Yquka.jpeg
 

jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#19
I measured out 175g of lead shot (#9 beads) This is the recommended starting point and my testing indicated it was close. I could melt lead or low temp alloy, but I don't have any sand or a ladle. So, I coat the inside of the nose with resin, pour in the shot, and then pour more resin over the top. I hit it with a heat gun for a bit to drive out air bubbles and to get the resin to penetrate down. Works pretty good.
However the weight came to far up the fuselage. Now the front clip of the canopy will not slide in far enough. I'm either going to modify the clip or grind out a slop in the lead (respirator!). Or maybe another concept is out there?
3g56b.jpeg
 

jvaliensi

New member
May 26, 2018
59
3
#20
Ballast: I found tungsten bars, at 500g each, 0.750" x 0.375" x 6" that slip perfectly in to the wing slots. A 1,000g should max this bird out. I though about cutting the bars in to smaller sections for weight ajustment, but these are so nice. I'll get three other sets instead, one aluminum set, one steel set and the other set bronze. Weights should be 150g, 430g, & 470g.
I'll need a lead set too so I can have a 600g ballast.
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