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Aeroic Gremlin, build (Aeroic donation to the 2019 ISR)

Doc James Hammond said:
I rest my case...

Doc.
Click to expand...
LOL, What were we debating?

I have to admit that I'm a lot lazier that Doc. I hate fishing for hooks with rubber bands. And having to keep a fresh supply of rubber bands. Also rubber bands just seems like a cop out for a $500 glider! Even with rubber bands I'd have needed to make a hard point to anchor the hooks. So why not do it right in the first place!

I was surprised at just how much left over epoxy there was on the back side of the wing root. This was gross and makes for an unnecessarily heavy model. To clear this bead of epoxy I had to groove the hardwood block to allow it to seat against the rib. Here I made a mistake. One should use plywood as the hard point. A solid block of wood will tend to split when drilled and tapped. (It was late at night when I added these to the wing. That's my story and I'm sticking to it)! Later I made the fuselage threaded hard points out of plywood.

The key to this retention system is the use of TopModels (Clip Fixing mini P/N03801) these include a nice separation tool (wedge). You will need a set of taps (8 x 1.25mm and 5 x 0.80mm. These are used to tap the hard points and allow for adjustments. (BTW; you can adjust the break a way force by making the retention arms longer with the use of a hacksaw).
alofthobbies.com

Top Model Mini Wing Locks

The Mini Wing Lock is intended for smaller planes with thinner wing profiles; thermal gliders, slopers and the like. The Mini Locks can also be used to make wing tips that simply click into place. On some aircraft fuselages it is not practical to use inte
alofthobbies.com alofthobbies.com

Now I have a simple and elegant retention system that is fast to assemble on the slope and doesn't need added parts that wear out, break or deteriorate (No rubber bands here)!

Also you can see that I have an auto plug in harness.

All the best,
Konrad

Gremlin hard point.jpg

Gremlin wing root.jpg

Gremlin wedge.jpg
 
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Nice solution, Konrad.

I did actually try steel loops on the wing roots and a bent music wire retainer on a similar model years ago.

That worked OK too - until I dropped the bent wire keeper in some grass....

Cheers,

Doc.
 
Nothing like throwing money at the problem, $3.75!

I guess I could loose the wedge. But the wings will still separate with some "gentle" rocking.
 
I see that you just glued the green 6-pin connectors into the wing root and the fuse, rather than using those black '6 pin mount' bulkheads. I'd have thought that you would like the flexibility of removing that connector at some point (e.g. repairs, adjustments).

I have not used those mounts yet, but was planning on using them on my Discus build.
 
They work. But as they need a recess to allow for a flush mount thay are a lot of work. Particularly with closed up molded wings and thin fiberglass fuselages. As I recall they allow the pig tails to move, not really being an auto plug in type connection.

I've rarely had any problem with the multiplex 6 pin connector. If I do, a good cleaning with contact cleaner has been more than adequate. With both the wing and fuse being rigidly mounted there has been no need for adjustments. I glue one side down solid. When that cures I then connect the connector together and use the solidly glued down connector half as my index for glueing the other half. Once that is cured I come back with a Cabosil and epoxy mixture and really glue these connectors down.
 
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Ready to maiden!!!
I'm at 1.55 kg with the CG at 78mm.

All I need is some wind and a visa from SWMBO. I'm thinking maybe Thursday or Friday.
 
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Well that was a waste of a visa. I went to the SLoT only to find the gate still damaged. So the maiden will have to wait, maybe after an F3F race.
 
As I'm using as large a battery as I could fit in the nose a 5 cell 2600 mAh NiMh. I really didn't want it to shift aft as a result of the hard heave, I fear I might have to give should I try to fly in lighter conditions. So I added this battery stop. I feel it is much better than just stuffing foam and hoping that nothing shifts.

As this was an Aeroic donation I thought I might use some of the budget on some accessories. I really like the Mag Switch, much more reliable than a mechanical switch or even just a 2 pin connector. I'm using a Zepsus 7 amp.

All the best,
Konrad

Gremlin Zepsus.jpg

Gremlin Battery stop.jpg
 
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LOL.

Now be careful as we are often judged by the company we keep, or the enemies we have.

All the best,
Konrad
 
OK guys, after much hesitation and general perseveration I have decided to hit the SMITE button, and finally come up with a name for the NEW GREMLIN. All of my modelling life, a name has haunted my modelling mind, and now it's time to use said moniker. soooooo...The new, and improved, instantly fittable motor, stronger, lighter, all-new, bran-spankin version has metamorphosed into...

RIDGE RAPER

KLOUD BLASTER 60

Now there's a name to conjure with - if, of course, you happen to be a magician - which I undoubtedly am.

Seriously, I think this poor little fellow - through no fault of its own - has had a bad rap. It is, and always was, just a small, convenient, (Even fits nicely in a gun case) quirky looking but pretty aerobatic model that could mostly stay quietly secreted in the car for when it was needed, and/or the owner wanted to flee from SWMBO.

The odd thing about the model is like most all of my designs, nobody has ever complained about the performance. I heard it had a blasting (see...its catching already) on RC Droops but since I have avowed never to enter that dirty troll infested sty again, Im happy I didn't see it.

Anyway...its coming.

Cheers,

Doctor Death (of the Gremlin)
 
Alright! Based on the response from those* that have actually flown a Gremlin I'm happy to hear that this concept will live on. I still like the name Pelican as the Gremlin looks to me a lot like the white Pelicans I fly with. That is a large nose and a folded back neck putting the head near the CG.

Not that you asked but here are somethings I'd like to see in the Kloud Blaster.
First, that the servo opening actually allow for servo placement.
Second, that the rudder actually move 40°+ each way.
Third, that the flap and aileron gap actually allow for independent movement. (The kinked hinge line and the surface thickness cause binding, CAD should solve this)
Forth, that there be hard points in the root rib. (For the wire harness and wing retention features).
Fifth, that if using the same actuation feature, that the elevator joiner be further away from the hinge.
Sixth, that forward mounting of the elevator servo NOT be a factory option.
Seventh, that there be a warning about IDS spoons with the thin double cusped airfoil.
Eight, that the customer install the firewall (motor mount).
Ninth, that the control fairings have recesses to allow surface movement.
And last that the nose not be so pointed. (This is out of legal concerns and public image concerns about flying a pointed spear).

* I have not flown a Gremlin, the weather gods are conspiring against me.

All the best,
Konrad

P.S.
Love the spelling with a "K"
 
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And if possible I'd like to see doubled skinning (pockets) like these.
forum.alofthobbies.com

Composite control drive installation

I just spent the better part of a day grinding out legacy control horns from my modern composite ship. I’d like to learn why composites ships haven’t fully moved away from the classic control horn we first became familiar with way back in the days of balsa wood models? I see an opportunity to...
forum.alofthobbies.com forum.alofthobbies.com
 
Good stuff Konrad:

OK lets look:

  1. First, that the servo opening actually allow for servo placement. Done.
  2. Second, that the rudder actually move 40°+ each way. OK noted.
  3. Third, that the flap and aileron gap actually allow for independent movement. (The kinked hinge line and the surface thickness cause binding, CAD should solve this) OK Noted
  4. Forth, that there be hard points in the root rib. (For the wire harness and wing retention features). OK Noted
  5. Fifth, that if using the same actuation feature, that the elevator joiner be further away from the hinge. Done
  6. Sixth, that forward mounting of the elevator servo NOT be a factory option. Done
  7. Seventh, that there be a warning about IDS spoons with the thin double cusped airfoil. Will do.
  8. Eight, that the customer install the firewall (motor mount). Done
  9. Ninth, that the control fairings have recesses to allow surface movement. Done
  10. And last that the nose not be so pointed. (This is out of legal concerns and public image concerns about flying a pointed spear). Done - in fact the new nose has long streamlined "Cheeks" to allow space inside for the nose fr the motor if needed and the spinner where you get out your hacksaw.
6/10 and 4 to work on - Thanks Buddy!

Doc.
 
Cheek cowl, I can hear the peanut gallery now! I assume this is to allow the motor wires of an out runner to pass the can. As you know I think this is a far more efficient set up than the outrunners in a can!

Looking forward to early release drawings.

All the best,
Konrad
 
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Konrad said:
Cheek cowl, I can hear the peanut gallery now! I assume this is to allow the motor wires of an out runner to pass the can. As you know I think this is a far more efficient set up than the outrunners in a can!

Looking forward to early release drawings.

All the best,
Konrad
Click to expand...

All of the above...

Doc.
 
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