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Aeroic Alpenbrise 4M build

Nice!!

Soooo bummed I missed out on flying that thing!!!
It was cool as hell. Red basically had to force the TX on me because I was super nervous to fly it, but I'm glad he did. It feels so good, that plane is really amazing. A real piece of art and performs like crazy. As big as it is, I couldn't see any flex in the wings whatsoever and Red was turning that thing HARD, like pylon racing hard and the CF didn't give at all. He said there's a massive CF wingspar in there as well. Such a sick plane... Pretty unreal, actually.
 
ok, got myself one of these and started the build! I thought it should be a nice quick one but how quickly I've run into problems.

It appears the holes in the control horns on mine are too small and not even consistent in size. I certainly can't get a clevis onto either horn on the first wing. I can't even get a 1.4mm drill bit cleanly through one of the holes. Any suggestions for how to open them up please, given the holes a just a few mm away from the surface - certainly far too close to get any drill or attachment to the wing.
All I can think of is a needle file, but I'm not keen on the risk of opening the hole up too much.
Thanks
 
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ok, got myself one of these and started the build! I thought it should be a nice quick one but how quickly I've run into problems.

It appears the holes in the control horns on mine are too small and not even consistent in size. I certainly can't get a clevis onto either horn on the first wing. I can't even get a 1.4mm drill bit cleanly through one of the holes. Any suggestions for how to open them up please, given the holes a just a few mm away from the surface - certainly far too close to get any drill or attachment to the wing.
All I can think of is a needle file, but I'm not keen on the risk of opening the hole up too much.
Thanks
On my build I used TLS hardware, but I still had to open up the rudder horn, same on other builds though like the Toccatta. I used one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Great-Planes...2592dcf3412334499bb56f077dca8fec&gad_source=1

Perhaps a regular long bit held in your hand? It doesn't take much.

Red
 
That looks interesting, although I'm struggling to see exactly how it works and not finding much online. Can you put different sized bits in it? If so then it could be exactly what I need. Although I'm not sure it's available any more, at least not in the UK (the above link won't even ship to UK).
I did try a 1.5mm bit but struggled to turn it because it's so close to the surface - trying to drill it out with fingertips is very difficult, it keeps getting stuck and becomes hard to pull out. That is however exactly the sort of idea I'm after...
 
Hmmm, that has given me an idea though, I have a few 1.5mm drill bits, if I put some milliput around the end of one of them to make it wide enough to actually hold and turn that may just do the trick!
 
This is a perennial problem.

It has been next to impossible to get good quality clevises in China for a very long time, and they are only just becoming available. Right now on the latest shipments the clevises supplied, and the control horn hole diameter should be complimentary, but that does not make them OK for all the clevis types or IDS etc.

I drill the holes at 1.2mm which is slightly undersized in order to cover or be purposely undersized for most of the clevis pin sizes. With so many types around we think this is the safest method and obviously far better than holes that are too large.

I'd love it to be standarized at 1.5MM across the board, but not so far. The pin sizes can vary between 1.2 to 1.8mm, so we opt for the smaller sizes so that they can be drilled out to the right size if needed.

Even for us is complicated: Here are the normal setups for models supplied to:
  • Germany/Europe = 1.2mm diameter holes with the control horns fitted.
  • USA (Under 3M) = 1.2mm diameter holes with control horns fitted.
  • USA (Over 3M) Models supplied ready for IDS with control horns supplied but not fitted.
  • UK = 1.2mm holes with the control horns fitted.
What I have done - yes I have the same problem - is to take a drill of the correct size for my clevises and then fit it into a peice of brass tube about 6" (150mm) long. It can be soldered or put in with Cyano glue - both work. Then I fit another larger tube over the end - in my case its a 6mm (1/4") carbon fibre tube to make a "boring tool" with the end large enough to provide 'Twiddling" purchase, but not so large as to give an obtuse angle to the horizontal.

This tool can then be used to bore out (twiddle) the holes to the correct diameter. YES, there will be a very slight angle between the horizontal plane and the drill angle, but if you take it carefully, step by step, and attack the control horn from both sides, this is almost negligible.

Hope you have fun with your model!

Doc.
 
I'm not sure a pin vise is going to be much better than the extension I have for my modelling drill.
Thanks for the explanation Doc, it makes sense. That's a clever idea. Thanks
 
I'm not sure a pin vise is going to be much better than the extension I have for my modelling drill.
Thanks for the explanation Doc, it makes sense. That's a clever idea. Thanks
Hey Jed - I think most of us over the years have made up special tools - your modelling drill extension sounds just like another one. ;) Most of us are elegant solution finders!

Doc.
 
Personally I toss out the chinese clevises and upgrade to Z bends, MP Jet or TLS depending on the application. I drill to the correct size. I have a dedicated drill index just for this reason.
 
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