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3d printing questions and answer thread.

Hank GB Z

Very Strong User
Thought I’d start a new thread for answers to 3d printing questions. I just bought 1 of alofts Prusa minis they were using. I had a few questions for the Aloft crew since they used the machine last. That led me to the thought of a dedicated thread. I prefer to go to a single trusted source over searching the depths of You Tube. I have nothing against a good You Tube video but they aren’t nesscissarly the first ones to pop up.
My question was about first layers sticking well and Ralfael and Wayne steered me in the right direction.

I’m sure I’ll have more to post here soon.

Hank
 
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Thought I’d start a new thread for answers to 3d printing questions. I just bought 1 of alofts Prusa minis they were using. I had a few questions for the Aloft crew since they used the machine last. That led me to the thought of a dedicated thread. I prefer to go to a single trusted source over searching the depths of You Tube. I have nothing against a good You Tube video but they aren’t nesscissarly the first ones to pop up.
My question was about first layers sticking well and Ralf and Wayne steered me in the right direction.

I’m sure I’ll have more to post here soon.

Hank
I will follow this thread with interest. Am about one year into 3d printing, primarily of models to fly. Have printed several planes from PLA but do not like this material much due to its lack of ability to endure outside light exposure.
Raymond
 
The first thing you want to do is master the first layer. If you can't master this step you will never have good results from the printer.

Luckily Prusa makes this very easy.

PLA and PETG are both very easy to print filaments.

PLA is great when you are starting out, or want to knock out a quick proof of concept as it can be printed at very high speeds if you are ok with it being a little ugly.

We use a lot of PETG here. With some practice you can get PETG to print just as nice as PLA. The advantages of PETG is it can deal with higher temps much better and in general is a little stronger. Not sure if it deals with UV much better or not.

(I printed a bird feeder in PLA in my early days and it lasted about 9 months outdoors before the UV pretty much killed it.)

I think you both have Prusa printers, if so, you should be able to print some of the TPU filaments. These are fun to play with, it is a rubber material and you can make flexable parts with it. This material comes in a rather of "hardnesses" you will want to start with some of the harder materials as it gets more and more tricky to print with it as you get into the softer materials. Keep in mind your extruder is trying to push this material into the hot end. We have printed super light and flexible tires for Konrad that actually flexed under the little vintage plane he had. That turned out really cool. We use TPU on our Carbon Falcons in key areas.

Anyhow, those are the basic materials I'd suggest for you until you have a need for anything more exotic.

I have been trying to get the RC airplane designers to check out some of the nylon filaments as I think they offer a great mix of extreme strength and flexibility depending on wall thicknesses. But these are not going to be a great choice for a machine that does not have an enclosure, and printing them is a little higher on the difficulty scale. Again this is something we use on key areas of our models with great results.

Like OpenTX, 3D printing can get very confusing if you jump around watching online videos. You will get all sorts of feedback, and much of it may contradict someone elses video. This will keep you up all night and get you little progress. I'd suggest just reading through the materials Prusa supplies. It is an excellent base of knowledge that you can grow from. Stick with one slicer, and don't worry too much about all of the other stuff out there.

If you start with the Prusa Slicer on your Prusa machine, you are going to have excellent results right away. Just tell it what your machine is, what filament you are using, and calibrate that first level and you should be printer very nice examples with very little effort. They have done an outstanding job. You will appreciate this as soon as you try a different slicer.

Yes, eventually you will want to try some other Slicers, especially if you are printing RC models. Cura is pretty popular for airplanes due to its handling of the thin walls for the wings, etc. Cura is pretty well setup for the Prusa printers, so it is not all that bad.

Hope this helps some.. feel free to ask as you go. I'm not an expert on it, but I watch Rafael and know enough to be dangerous. Rafael makes it all look easy and rarely has a print issue.
 
I’ve finally started getting reliable prints. I found one screw from the heat bed had come off in transit. I put it back and now the bed doesn’t distort when it heats up. I haven’t had any prints pop off since I fixed it. I also replaced the X axis belt as the original had a broken tooth.

I was printing this hello kitty thing and it keeps making this voids on the first layer. Is my Zoffset still not right? I did a live adjustment on the other corner and it got better.

Thanks,

Hank
 

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it is possible that your z offset is not right, but in that case also the printer bed is flat as a potato chip.
it seems that the nozzle is hitting the printed layers in the problem zone, and that the problem does not happen everywhere.
 
Thought I’d start a new thread for answers to 3d printing questions. I just bought 1 of alofts Prusa minis they were using. I had a few questions for the Aloft crew since they used the machine last. That led me to the thought of a dedicated thread. I prefer to go to a single trusted source over searching the depths of You Tube. I have nothing against a good You Tube video but they aren’t nesscissarly the first ones to pop up.
My question was about first layers sticking well and Ralfael and Wayne steered me in the right direction.

I’m sure I’ll have more to post here soon.

Hank
What a great idea! Truly in the best spirit of modelling.

Maybe we can have more resource threads. I did a bunch of stuff on model aerodynamics, and small scale home moulding for modellers here.

Resource section?

More...more!

Thanks Hank

Doc.
 
@jure thats another good thought to check the bed is flat. It is the datum for the whole machine. This is a Prusa printer and it has a sensor to compensate for for any irregularities in the bed but the flatter the bed for sure the better the print.

@Doc J,

I’m all for more resources to help modelers.

Hank
 
I checked I was using the right plate setting (I wasn’t), then I did another first layer calibration. I went to low then backed up. So far this result is better. Still some voids but it is better.
The Adventure Continues…

Hank
 
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Your extrusion multiplier could be a little higher. BUT, keep in mind that small gaps around curved lines is common. You do not want to be over extruding... The next pass with the next layer will fill them pretty well.
 
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...I was printing this hello kitty thing and it keeps making this voids on the first layer. Is my Zoffset still not right? I did a live adjustment on the other corner and it got better...
somewhat related is the "Z hop" parameter , I have adjusted it in Cura, but I don't know is that available in the slicer that you use , most likely it is .
I noticed that you bought this printer from Aloft, so they know better more specific details than I do.
See the screenshot from my CURA 5 Travel settings;
Untitled.jpg
 
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I had a nice talk with @RafaelAvila today and he showed me just a few thing to look at to get better prints. My z offset was still too high so he showed me what to look for in first layer calibration. Then we changed some of the settings in the slicer making sure I was using the right filament setting and nozel temp. I did another hello kitty print. This is the best one. The back side is completely smooth. No voids at all like before. The print isn’t flat because I took it off the plate too soon and it warped. Had I waited a few minutes it would have stayed flat. I’m tickled pink. Now trying new prints. Thanks again Rafael.

Hank
 

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The first thing you want to do is master the first layer. If you can't master this step you will never have good results from the printer.

Luckily Prusa makes this very easy.

PLA and PETG are both very easy to print filaments.

PLA is great when you are starting out, or want to knock out a quick proof of concept as it can be printed at very high speeds if you are ok with it being a little ugly.

We use a lot of PETG here. With some practice you can get PETG to print just as nice as PLA. The advantages of PETG is it can deal with higher temps much better and in general is a little stronger. Not sure if it deals with UV much better or not.

(I printed a bird feeder in PLA in my early days and it lasted about 9 months outdoors before the UV pretty much killed it.)

I think you both have Prusa printers, if so, you should be able to print some of the TPU filaments. These are fun to play with, it is a rubber material and you can make flexable parts with it. This material comes in a rather of "hardnesses" you will want to start with some of the harder materials as it gets more and more tricky to print with it as you get into the softer materials. Keep in mind your extruder is trying to push this material into the hot end. We have printed super light and flexible tires for Konrad that actually flexed under the little vintage plane he had. That turned out really cool. We use TPU on our Carbon Falcons in key areas.

Anyhow, those are the basic materials I'd suggest for you until you have a need for anything more exotic.

I have been trying to get the RC airplane designers to check out some of the nylon filaments as I think they offer a great mix of extreme strength and flexibility depending on wall thicknesses. But these are not going to be a great choice for a machine that does not have an enclosure, and printing them is a little higher on the difficulty scale. Again this is something we use on key areas of our models with great results.

Like OpenTX, 3D printing can get very confusing if you jump around watching online videos. You will get all sorts of feedback, and much of it may contradict someone elses video. This will keep you up all night and get you little progress. I'd suggest just reading through the materials Prusa supplies slicer like orca 3d. It is an excellent base of knowledge that you can grow from. Stick with one slicer, and don't worry too much about all of the other stuff out there.

If you start with the Prusa Slicer on your Prusa machine, you are going to have excellent results right away. Just tell it what your machine is, what filament you are using, and calibrate that first level and you should be printer very nice examples with very little effort. They have done an outstanding job. You will appreciate this as soon as you try a different slicer.

Yes, eventually you will want to try some other Slicers, especially if you are printing RC models. Cura is pretty popular for airplanes due to its handling of the thin walls for the wings, etc. Cura is pretty well setup for the Prusa printers, so it is not all that bad.

Hope this helps some.. feel free to ask as you go. I'm not an expert on it, but I watch Rafael and know enough to be dangerous. Rafael makes it all look easy and rarely has a print issue.
it’ll be a handy place to collect tips without digging through endless videos. For your Prusa MINI, first layer adhesion is one of the most important things to get dialed in. The advice you got from Ralfael and Wayne was spot on: make sure your Live Z adjustment is set correctly so the nozzle is pressing the filament just enough into the bed. Also, keep the sheet clean by wiping with isopropyl alcohol before each print. If you switch filaments, especially to PETG, a light layer of glue stick can protect the bed surface. Looking forward to seeing what other questions you bring up here.
 
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