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3D Printed Glider Seagull

as flown , these were the radio settings:
Rudder Stick weight : 80%
Aileron Stick weight : 68%
Elevator Stick weight : 80%

Rudder mix: 90% Rud + 32% Ail
Ailevator mix (each) : 100% Ail +/- 40% Ele

The effective servo arm length is 14 mm. Clearly , this length may be reduced.

these settings were quickly produced and modified at the flying site between flights , and may need a bit of rearrangement.
Dual rates would also be nice to have.
 
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A concern I see is with the Aileron Elevator mix ratio (Delta). Most mixes should add up to 100 or less for combined flight functions. As I read things, I suspect that at full aileron there is no elevator input available. I like with OpenTX to start my Delta mix with a ratio of 50/50. If I need to change things I often will change things to get the balance I want. Like stronger ailerons I'd set the mix for 70/30. This allows me to maintain full control with the sticks in the corners.

On my EDF I'm using 6 & 7mm servo arms and still meet the recommended control throws.
 
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look how clever I was:
Ailevator Mix = 0.68 * 1.0 + 0.8 * 0.4 = 1.0
Rudder Mix = 0.90 * 0.80 + 0.32 * 0.68 = 0.937
 
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LOL.
But do you get both Aileron and Elevator movement as the stick reach the corners. If so great. But from here it looks like you could easily end up with truncated control inputs.
 
I'm confused. As I recall you should have aileron to flap mix turned on so the rudder follows the aileron. Check the manual for the amount suggested. Everything else is just basic elevon mixing. Don't recall any aileron to elevator. I'd think that would be a horrible combination.

Anyhow, reduce your throws and get her where you are happy. Then practice flying slowly and gentle much like the real bird. For me this means trimming the elevator for a slower cruise and using mostly rudder to steer. But whatever works for you..

Above all have fun with it.
 
I'm confused. As I recall you should have aileron to flap mix turned on so the rudder follows the aileron. Check the manual for the amount suggested. Everything else is just basic elevon mixing. Don't recall any aileron to elevator. I'd think that would be a horrible combination.

Anyhow, reduce your throws and get her where you are happy. Then practice flying slowly and gentle much like the real bird. For me this means trimming the elevator for a slower cruise and using mostly rudder to steer. But whatever works for you..

Above all have fun with it.
the mixes that I have:
Rudder stick : to rudder servo
Aileron stick: to ailevator servos and rudder servo
Elevator stick: to ailevator servos
 
I am new to the site,I posted on another thred that I was wondering if anyone has tried to put a 50mm edf into the plane print seagull. I'm tired of waiting for hobbyking to have 40mm back in stock.
 
I am new to the site,I posted on another thread that I was wondering if anyone has tried to put a 50mm edf into the plane print seagull. I'm tired of waiting for hobbyking to have 40mm back in stock.
BTW, I am not a "fan" of EDFs
follow these links, please:





also attached , a file with my collection of seagull information and more links.
 

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I am new to the site,I posted on another thred that I was wondering if anyone has tried to put a 50mm edf into the plane print seagull. I'm tired of waiting for hobbyking to have 40mm back in stock.
Welcome!

Now I am a fan of EDF. But they are often at a huge disadvantage in all aspects of powering flight. But there is that "Cool Factor".

As you have found Hobby KIng is next to worthless for just about anything related to our toy airplanes. I think there are a lot of 40mm fans and sub systems. I'm thinking of the E-flite units.

Please note my gull is powered by a 40mm EDF unit on 3 HV lipo cells. It does fly the gull even at 200 grams over weight. But it is not set up for the faint of heart as it is very easy to get behind the power curve. It is because of this that I haven't flown this gull from a flat land site. All my flights have started out on the slope.
 
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