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1946 Floater build

61rcpilot

New User
This is my first post, so I don’t know all the rules, but here it goes. Was given an old kit, and I do mean old. It’s from 1946
and the balsa is in great condition. I’m into power gliders, myself, so I plan to make this floater as close to original but RC
Electric. I will try posting my progress as I build.
61rcpilot
 

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Awesome! I love it, and looks good in the illustration. Airfoil looks really good for the age of the kit. Please keep us updated as you go. I like it!
 
What is the wingspan on the Jasco FLOATER?

I agree with Wayne on the airfoil.
Not dramatically different than the one he chose for the AH-100.
What is old becomes new again.
 

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What is the wingspan on the Jasco FLOATER?

I agree with Wayne on the airfoil.
Not dramatically different than the one he chose for the AH-100.
What is old becomes new again.
Hi Dave, the WS is 72”. It is a kit u gave me. I’ve just made copies of the ‘46 plan. Cord of wing is 7 1/2” wide, 3/4” deep at spar.
 
Awesome! I love it, and looks good in the illustration. Airfoil looks really good for the age of the kit. Please keep us updated as you go. I like it!
Thanks Wayne. Made working copies of the ‘46 original, and cut some new wood.
 

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I see she has a lifting tail. Have you played with lifting tails before?
Learned to fly on a Telemaster 40. Prefer lifting stabs, I tend to make my planes tail heavy, so a lifting tail
Helps my CG. Now, about all these shts of non-lasered ribs,ha,ha
 

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Bob and I are building and flying buddies.
In the last year Bob has built and flown:

1. OCEAN BREEZE - scratch built e-glider
2. Small size OCEAN BREEZE - scratch built e-glider
3. Sig RISER-100 - scratch built e-glider

// Dave
 

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…Now, about all these shts of non-lasered ribs,ha,ha

Ooh! A printed balsa kit! For the constant chord center sect, just make yourself a template to facilitate rib cutting. U could go a step further and make 2 templates and use the sandwich method to crank them all out at once. Bonus is the sandwich method can also be used to generate your tapered outboard sections.

Alternatively, if u have a disk sander, a still not too tedious “manual” method is to quickly rough cut out the parts and then quickly final shape them on the sander. Otherwise X-acto cutting each shape accurately is a real chore
 
Ooh! A printed balsa kit! For the constant chord center sect, just make yourself a template to facilitate rib cutting. U could go a step further and make 2 templates and use the sandwich method to crank them all out at once. Bonus is the sandwich method can also be used to generate your tapered outboard sections.

Alternatively, if u have a disk sander, a still not too tedious “manual” method is to quickly rough cut out the parts and then quickly final shape them on the sander. Otherwise X-acto cutting each shape accurately is a real chore
Thanks, Mucksmear, but I was making a joke about the printed ribs. I have been building models for over 35 yrs.
 

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> Alternatively, if u have a disk sander, a still not too tedious “manual” method is to
> quickly rough cut out the parts and then quickly final shape them on the sander.


Mucksmear,
I like that idea.
I don't have a disk sander, but I have done similar with a Dremel rotary tool with sandpaper cylinder.
Especially on plywood parts.
 
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Very nice.

Would you believe I don't use any of the three tools in your photo for RC builds?

I like a sanding block in my hand, everytime I have used a belt sander on an plane it has usually resulted in errors. The disk sander is handy though. Again, I usually jump to the block sander first.

A customer highly recommended a little Detail Sander.

It does work pretty well for fuselages and such, it is much faster, but still like a block in my hand a bit better. Not in a race to finish.. Sanding is sort of Zen.. Bringing the airplane to shape. I don't hate it other than the mess.

With the build you have, you will for sure be putting all three of those tools to work!
 
For those about to rock...
People who might be starting out in kit building...
Note that power tools are useful but optional.

I set up my shop, the Balsa Dungeon, in 1981. It'd been in regular use ever since.
While I do have a scroll saw, I have yet to get a power sander and a drill press.
I've been able to get pretty far with sanding blocks, a hand drill, and a Dremel rotary tool.

If you have the space and the disposable income, there's no doubt that the work goes faster and with more accuracy using the power tools.

Be sure to wear suitable eye protection when using power tools, especially the Dremel.
 

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