Hello guys. I'm looking for an .15 motor for a project here
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.15 motor glow
- Thread starter RafaelAvila
- Start date
Konrad
Very Strong User
Ok, I think this would work best with a "low performance" 15 aimed at turning an 8x4 prop.
To be clear I wouldn't wish a glow engine on my worse enemy, and for sure not a beginner. (This is from a guy, that at one time use to build his own engines)!
At one time I loved the 2.5cc class of engine. It took me a while to find this one, in my attic, an Enya 15 III. This is a classic baffle engine with exhaust valve and an air bleed carb. This is and old school engine in that it has a lapped piston and liner (cast iron piston in a leaded steel liner). This type of construction requires 100% caster oil in the fuel with the fuel oil content being 20% to 28%. This engine taught 10's of thousands to fly in the 60's and 70's.
This particular engine has no time on it. It uses a short reach "idle bar" glow plug. The only down side I see to this engine is that it isn't designed to be fitted with a muffler. ( I might have a strap on muffler). This would be an issue if your club field requires mufflers for engine of 0.15cid or larger. Now most clubs I use to belong to had a muffler requirement for engines LARGER than a 0.15cid.
Glow and liquid fuel was OK in the 20th century. But in the 21st century there is no practical reason to run glow. I strongly recommend fitting a power system that would use a 3 cell lipo drawing 25 amps or so.
But if you want to experience the horrors we endured to fly RC 50 years or so ago, this engine would be a good example.
Let me know if you think you could use it. I'll try to bring it with me on my next visit to Aloft Hobbies.
To be clear I wouldn't wish a glow engine on my worse enemy, and for sure not a beginner. (This is from a guy, that at one time use to build his own engines)!
At one time I loved the 2.5cc class of engine. It took me a while to find this one, in my attic, an Enya 15 III. This is a classic baffle engine with exhaust valve and an air bleed carb. This is and old school engine in that it has a lapped piston and liner (cast iron piston in a leaded steel liner). This type of construction requires 100% caster oil in the fuel with the fuel oil content being 20% to 28%. This engine taught 10's of thousands to fly in the 60's and 70's.
This particular engine has no time on it. It uses a short reach "idle bar" glow plug. The only down side I see to this engine is that it isn't designed to be fitted with a muffler. ( I might have a strap on muffler). This would be an issue if your club field requires mufflers for engine of 0.15cid or larger. Now most clubs I use to belong to had a muffler requirement for engines LARGER than a 0.15cid.
Glow and liquid fuel was OK in the 20th century. But in the 21st century there is no practical reason to run glow. I strongly recommend fitting a power system that would use a 3 cell lipo drawing 25 amps or so.
But if you want to experience the horrors we endured to fly RC 50 years or so ago, this engine would be a good example.
Let me know if you think you could use it. I'll try to bring it with me on my next visit to Aloft Hobbies.
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I just read your entire explanation and I thought it was amazing how things were done a long time ago
I appreciate your time for explaining all this to me and for offering me this engine
but after that part "But if you want to experience the horrors we endured to fly RC 50 years or so ago, this engine would be a good example."
I really gave up hahahaah I'm going to assemble it electrically.
thanks for opening my eyes hahaha
Konrad
Very Strong User
Lol, That was just skimming the surface! There it oil soaked airframe and the fire danger with liquid fuel. Not to mention that glow is just unreliable. More planes where lost to flame outs (dead stick) events. Oh, and then there is the support equipment, glow drivers, fuel pumps, tachometer, 409 cleaner, and rolls and rolls of paper towels!
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
Rafael, for ease of use and economy, ypu can convert a glow to gas, or even diesel.
Getting a 2 cycle gas that small, iffy..but converting one may be possible. The man to talk to would be Adrian at CH ignition. If anyone could spec a conversion and ignition for it, it would be him.
The benefit is your fuel costs go WAY down.
Give me a day. Might be able to find a 3cc gas engine
Getting a 2 cycle gas that small, iffy..but converting one may be possible. The man to talk to would be Adrian at CH ignition. If anyone could spec a conversion and ignition for it, it would be him.
The benefit is your fuel costs go WAY down.
Give me a day. Might be able to find a 3cc gas engine
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
Here would be your best engine..note, needle/carb at back of engine to keep your hand as far from prop as possible.
www.os-engines.co.jp
I thought, perhaps, toyan might have one that small in gas. They don't.
Being a 2.4 cc engine, it may be possible to still convert, but that would be a conversation to hold with Adrian at CHignition. When it comes to stuff like that, he is the one to talk to..as far as what it would take to convert...not much..lots of guys using glow plugs on converted nitro engines. Converting to diesel would require head work...lots of it.
If you'd like, I can give you Adrian's email and you can see where that conversation might go. Not even sure you'd have to do a whole bunch to convert it.
If it is possible, Adrian would get all the needed stuff together for you and walk you through it.
OS engines are still a solid go to, regardless. Usually very reliable. Just remember, if you aren't going to fly it regularly, be sure to put a good "storage" oil in the cylinder. I use Lucas gun oil in my gassers. Its synthetic, and on the next start, easily mixes with the fuel/2 cycle until its clear. I've never had rust. The Zenoah currently has a few cc's of it in it.
The other thing..make sure you use the right fuel line. Nitro will eat fuel line meant for gas engines alive. Third, watch the prop..its not uncommon for a nitro engone to spin 10k..it will absolutely shred flesh. No flip starting one that small..use an electric starter with an onboard glow driver so you aren't reaching over the prop. A glow driver for that small of a motor won't be huge or that heavy, but it will be much safer as the whole engine/exhaust/and prop will fit mostly in your hand, theres not a lot of room for maneuvering.
Another reason I like bigger displacement....more room lol.
Go to the farm supply or medical supply and get you some 30 and 50 cc syringes for filling your fuel tank..less mess.
Last..locktite the daylights out of the mounting rail bolts. Combustion engines vibrate..a lot...
Check those mounts each time you go to start the engine too..same goes for the prop bolt.
Other than that, its just tuning. If you don't have a hand held tach, get one.
Once you have it running, get it to as high if rpm as you can(with prop) then just nudge to the ritch side slightly...very slightly.
Last thing, your fuel tank setup. The pick up line and clunk make sure it stays at the farthest from the stopper at all times, all orientations, even vertical nose down so the engine doesn't suck air and quit. Brass tubing will do the job, once yoi think you have it right, just turn the tank in all orientations on your hand and watch the clunk. If it stays at the "bottom" ipposite the stopper in all orientations, you are good. Just keep an eye on the fuel line..when it starts to get hard, change it out for new. Same with the tank stopper.
Last, zap makes a good plane cleaner..gets the residue off the covering very well. Nitro engines spit lits of oil..you can use a small container, like a film container as an exampke, to catch the oil..it will collect in the exhaust. If the exhaust doesn't have a port for that already, I'd be surprised.
Combustion engines require more tlc than an electric, but, for me, thats part of the draw. The other is flight times and recharge times. I can fly 2 or three times without charging on a gas engine..vs recharge/swap every flight on an electric. Glow isn't that different in that regard. If thats a full rc bird, you'll recharge the reciever battery maybe once a day..
Glow driver can run off same battery with a BEC.
On that small of an engine, with a pretty open cowl, cooling won't be an issue.
Give yourself a loop of fuel line thats easy to get to on the ground. Pinch it to kill the engine. Thats the other thing about nitro engines...once they are running, they don't like to stop...lol. In that regard, always have a back up plan.
MAX-15LA-S (11536)
O.S. ENGINES（小川精機）、O.S.PROFESSIONAL、UAV、ドローン用動力源。UAVエンジン製品情報。
www.os-engines.co.jp
I thought, perhaps, toyan might have one that small in gas. They don't.
Being a 2.4 cc engine, it may be possible to still convert, but that would be a conversation to hold with Adrian at CHignition. When it comes to stuff like that, he is the one to talk to..as far as what it would take to convert...not much..lots of guys using glow plugs on converted nitro engines. Converting to diesel would require head work...lots of it.
If you'd like, I can give you Adrian's email and you can see where that conversation might go. Not even sure you'd have to do a whole bunch to convert it.
If it is possible, Adrian would get all the needed stuff together for you and walk you through it.
OS engines are still a solid go to, regardless. Usually very reliable. Just remember, if you aren't going to fly it regularly, be sure to put a good "storage" oil in the cylinder. I use Lucas gun oil in my gassers. Its synthetic, and on the next start, easily mixes with the fuel/2 cycle until its clear. I've never had rust. The Zenoah currently has a few cc's of it in it.
The other thing..make sure you use the right fuel line. Nitro will eat fuel line meant for gas engines alive. Third, watch the prop..its not uncommon for a nitro engone to spin 10k..it will absolutely shred flesh. No flip starting one that small..use an electric starter with an onboard glow driver so you aren't reaching over the prop. A glow driver for that small of a motor won't be huge or that heavy, but it will be much safer as the whole engine/exhaust/and prop will fit mostly in your hand, theres not a lot of room for maneuvering.
Another reason I like bigger displacement....more room lol.
Go to the farm supply or medical supply and get you some 30 and 50 cc syringes for filling your fuel tank..less mess.
Last..locktite the daylights out of the mounting rail bolts. Combustion engines vibrate..a lot...
Check those mounts each time you go to start the engine too..same goes for the prop bolt.
Other than that, its just tuning. If you don't have a hand held tach, get one.
Once you have it running, get it to as high if rpm as you can(with prop) then just nudge to the ritch side slightly...very slightly.
Last thing, your fuel tank setup. The pick up line and clunk make sure it stays at the farthest from the stopper at all times, all orientations, even vertical nose down so the engine doesn't suck air and quit. Brass tubing will do the job, once yoi think you have it right, just turn the tank in all orientations on your hand and watch the clunk. If it stays at the "bottom" ipposite the stopper in all orientations, you are good. Just keep an eye on the fuel line..when it starts to get hard, change it out for new. Same with the tank stopper.
Last, zap makes a good plane cleaner..gets the residue off the covering very well. Nitro engines spit lits of oil..you can use a small container, like a film container as an exampke, to catch the oil..it will collect in the exhaust. If the exhaust doesn't have a port for that already, I'd be surprised.
Combustion engines require more tlc than an electric, but, for me, thats part of the draw. The other is flight times and recharge times. I can fly 2 or three times without charging on a gas engine..vs recharge/swap every flight on an electric. Glow isn't that different in that regard. If thats a full rc bird, you'll recharge the reciever battery maybe once a day..
Glow driver can run off same battery with a BEC.
On that small of an engine, with a pretty open cowl, cooling won't be an issue.
Give yourself a loop of fuel line thats easy to get to on the ground. Pinch it to kill the engine. Thats the other thing about nitro engines...once they are running, they don't like to stop...lol. In that regard, always have a back up plan.
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Txmustangflyer
Strong User
One last suggestion...buff up the landing gear some.
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
All of that and then read hes gonna put a blender motor in it...
Sigh...
Sigh...
I personally would put a glow engine without hesitation. But being that the originator of the question has no glow background without any of the required infrastructure, electric makes sense. This particular plane, being a partial glider, could benefit from the ability to turn on/off the motor in flight. Also, if flying off a grass field, I would eliminate the landing gear and handlaunch/belly land it.
janniesophia4
New User
Thankyou guys. This threat is really helpful for me.
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
:Homer: mmmmm...chrommmme
Good people Today is FRIDAY!!! and we at aloft hobbies do a Build Night every Friday, where we bring the projects we are working on and sit at the table and have fun doing some builds and talk about our airplane projects
so for this plane
I was convinced to use a glow engine, but I was convinced that it was not the best option. so here's my electric set up
Wish Me Lucky
so for this plane
I was convinced to use a glow engine, but I was convinced that it was not the best option. so here's my electric set up
APC 10x6E Thin Electric
LINK HERE https://alofthobbies.com/apc-10x6e-thin-electric.htmlHobbyWing FlyFun Mini 30A ESC V5
LINK HERE https://alofthobbies.com/hobbywing-flyfun-mini-30a-esc-v5.htmlEmax GT2215 1180 kv
LINK HERE https://alofthobbies.com/emax-gt2215.htmlWish Me Lucky
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
Once you go fuel....you never go back
Sorry Tex...It's set in stone. She'll be built as an electric.
Txmustangflyer
Strong User
"Come to the dark side, my son"
